Introducing: Zen-phyr and how it inspired our new weaving yarn collection
What if wool could feel almost weightless?
Wool is often associated with warmth, knitwear and cold-weather comfort. The starting point for Zen-phyr was a desire to challenge this long-standing perception and explore a new role for wool in lightweight loungewear garments. Developed by our Innovation Hub team together with Chinese designer Feifei Teng, the project combines Eastern-inspired aesthetics with a focus on softness, comfort and ease of wear.
Beyond the collection itself, Zen-phyr inspired the development of our new weaving yarns for Spring/Summer 2028. Combining carefully selected fibre blends with advanced spinning technologies, they open up fresh possibilities for lightweight wool-rich fabrics.
Extra light, fluid & airy.
Inspired
by the flow of air.
The ambition behind Zen-phyr was to translate wool’s natural comfort into garments that feel effortless to wear while meeting the functional and aesthetic requirements of modern longewear. The name merges “zen”, representing balance and calm, with “zephyr”, a gentle breeze. Together, they capture the collection’s pursuit of ease and fluidity.
Feifei envisioned an everyday collection that felt soft, light and comfortable while drawing on the essence of Eastern aesthetics. The garments move between moments of rest, leisure and daily life. Inclusive silhouettes, fluid layers and a sea-and-cloud motif support the calm visual language of the collection.
Unlike a conventional material-led development, Zen-phyr began with the design vision. Each yarn and fabric construction was selected or developed around the needs of the garments, contributing softness, breathability, structure or shape retention where required. Combining circular knits, flat knits and woven constructions, the collection creates a dialogue between material innovation and design intent.
Yarns chosen for their next-to-skin comfort.
At the centre of the knitted developments lies Pearl Nm 100/1, produced from 15.5µ ultrafine Merino wool. Its fine fibre diameter creates an exceptionally soft handle and makes the fibre particularly suited to garments worn directly against the skin. This provided the foundation for a project focused on lightness, movement and everyday wearability.
Pearl was used in a wool-Sorona® jacquard construction. The fine yarn supports the lightweight character of the fabric while preserving the natural look and comfort of premium Merino wool. Further knitted fabrics were developed with Hohhot Nm 68/1, a high-count blend of TENCEL™ Lyocell, Merino wool and cashmere.
Pearl Nm 100/1
15.5µ ultrafine Merino wool, selected for next-to-skin softness and used in the wool-Sorona® jacquard construction.
Hohhot Nm 68/1
60% TENCEL™ Lyocell / 30% Merino wool / 10% cashmere, developed for an ultra-light, sheer and soft feel in rib and interlock fabrics.
Sempione Betaspun®
a Merino wool-based weaving yarn using Betaspun® Evolution technology, selected for all woven pieces in the collection.
Creating lightness through technical precision.





The resulting fabric portfolio demonstrates how different yarn constructions can work together within one coherent collection. The wool-cashmere-TENCEL™ Lyocell rib and interlock fabrics deliver softness and fluid drape. The jacquard construction combines 58% Merino wool with 42% Sorona®, supporting recovery and shape retention while maintaining a soft handle. The Sempione Betaspun® woven fabrics add light structure and movement. Double-layer constructions provide coverage and subtle shaping while preserving breathability.
Turning the concept into wearable products required close coordination between design, yarn development, fabric manufacturing and garment production. The collection brings together circular knits, flat knits and woven constructions. Each material required an individual approach to dyeing, printing and finishing, while differences in stretch and shrinkage had to be managed when fabrics were combined within one garment.
Particular attention was given to the sea-and-cloud print and the mixed-fabric construction of the styles. Achieving consistent colour, clear pattern definition and the intended drape required repeated sampling and refinement with the manufacturing partners. The process allowed the design vision to guide the material solution. Rather than treating fabrics as fixed inputs, the teams adjusted yarn selection, construction and finishing together to reach the required balance of softness, structure and visual lightness.
Inspiring the next generation of weaving yarns.
The development of Zen-phyr also helped lay the foundation for our Spring/Summer 2028 Solar Drift weaving yarn collection. Working with the requirements of the garments gave the team direct insight into the yarn characteristics needed for light, breathable and stable spring/summer fabrics.
One of the key outcomes was the further exploration of Betaspun® technology for lightweight weaving applications. Developed to combine the natural benefits of Merino wool with enhanced durability and stability, Betaspun® uses a fine filament wrapped around a Merino wool-based yarn. This construction adds strength and stability while preserving the natural look, hand feel and comfort of wool.
Building on this concept, Betaspun® Evolution replaces conventional filaments with natural yarns or bio-based alternatives, expanding the material possibilities of the technology. One of the yarns in the collection is Sempione Betaspun®, which was used in the woven styles of Zen-phyr. Combining a Merino wool core with a fine cotton wrapping, the yarn supported flowing silhouettes and a lightweight appearance while providing the stability required for weaving and everyday wear.
The insights were further developed with our weaving partners across China, Japan and Italy, resulting in the Solar Drift collection. The collection further explores the potential of the Betaspun® platform through weaving yarns developed with both Betaspun® and Betaspun® Evolution. Together, they demonstrate how different fibre combinations can be used to create lightweight wool-rich fabrics while providing the strength and stability required for weaving.
Results and future outlook
Zen-phyr demonstrates how ultrafine Merino wool can be reimagined for a new category of everyday wear. Combining 15.5µ Merino wool, innovative yarn constructions and carefully selected fibre blends, the project resulted in a loungewear capsule that feels soft, fluid and effortless to wear. At the same time, the collaboration generated valuable insights that continue to shape our yarn developments.
Feifei Teng
With over a decade of dual leadership in design and product for an outdoor sports brand, FeiFei Teng is highly experienced in the end-to-end product development lifecycle – from strategic positioning and creative planning to design execution and product management – while attuned to fast-response business.
Sophisticated in fabric innovation, particularly in Merino wool.
Design philosophy
Rooted in minimalist pragmatism – committing to timeless style and enduring long-term value, and pursuing optimal balance between aesthetics and performance.
More details? Get in contact!
Interested in your own lightweight garment?
Let’s turn inspiration into innovation. Discover the weaving yarns that were inspired by the Zen-phyr project and developed for Spring/Summer 2028.