Interview with Berto Tessile Industriale on our wool denim Innovation Hub story
Collaboration has always been at the heart of our Innovation Hub. When we partner with specialists who bring a distinct perspective and deep material expertise, new ideas take shape more naturally. Our work with Berto Industrial Tessile, an Italian denim specialist, for our wool denim Innovation Hub story is one of those moments where two worlds meet, challenge each other, and ultimately create something special together.
In this interview, they reflect on what guided their decisions, how their approach evolved throughout the process, and where they see potential for further development.
How the project came together
Berto joined the project because they were excited by the idea of enriching traditional denim with the nobility of wool. We aligned on a common goal early: keep the classic indigo character intact, but introduce a new internal comfort layer through Merino. The result is a fabric that looks unmistakably like denim, but feels different the moment you wear it.
Südwolle Group is the world leader in the supply of wool yarns, and Berto is always open to collaborating and experimenting with indigo in different ways. The ambition was to “contaminate” the authentic aesthetics of denim with the nobility of a precious fibre. The result is a fabric that combines a clean and extremely sophisticated image with a higher intrinsic value, elevating denim to new standards of elegance.
The real technical challenge lay in harmonising two worlds: cotton denim and wool.
We worked meticulously to identify a finishing process that could combine the typical finishes of denim with the specific treatments of the wool industry, ensuring a cohesive and high-performance end result.
We focused our selection on yarns that would guarantee a soft touch and absolute comfort against the skin, eliminating any possible roughness.
Equally fundamental was ease of maintenance, seeking a fibre that would meet domestic and practical needs.
Designing the fabric structure
Wool works as the weft because the yarn adjusts easily to the fabric’s requirements, giving the denim a stable feel and a clean, refined look. Different versions of Banda TEC helped create lighter or heavier fabrics for the capsule. The team plans to keep exploring new possibilities, from other wool types to a stretchy wool yarn that could open up even more ways to reinvent denim.
The use of TEC technology was the key element, combined with Südwolle Group‘s extraordinary flexibility in customising the yarn according to our technical specifications. This collaboration has allowed us to achieve uncommon stability and aesthetic appeal.
Absolutely, we intend to continue with further developments, including other types of wool and experimentation with an elastic wool yarn suitable for denim.
How to care for the fabric
Berto recommends washing the fabrics in cold water, drying them flat, and ironing at low heat. Harsh chemicals should be avoided, and dry cleaning helps maintain the wool’s structure. Creating the right finish took extensive testing to balance wool’s softness with denim’s durability, and some classic denim treatments – like soda washes or high heat – must be avoided to protect the wool.
To preserve the integrity and beauty of the fabric over time, we recommend washing in cold water and drying flat, avoiding the use of aggressive chemicals. Ironing should be done at low temperatures. Alternatively, dry cleaning remains an excellent solution for maintaining the structure of the fibre.
It was a rigorous refinement process. We conducted numerous laboratory tests followed by industrial trials to calibrate each step. Achieving the perfect balance between the feel of wool and the strength of denim required a thorough review of our production standards.
Absolutely. We had to rethink the traditional finishing cycle, excluding soda washing and all high-temperature treatments that would compromise the delicate nature and natural elastic properties of wool.
Looking ahead
After the successful collaboration with our network, the team plans to expand the denim range with new versions, including different wool–cotton blends, stretch options, and new colourways. Beyond fashion, they also see strong potential in interior design, especially for upholstery where durability and warmth are key.
It was a collaboration marked by the utmost professionalism and cordiality. We found a partner capable of providing excellent know-how, actively supporting us in translating our creative vision into a concrete and successful product.
Yes, our goal is to expand the range to include ready-to-dye and piece-dyed bases, as well as to perfect, as mentioned, a stretch version that combines the comfort of wool with the dynamic wearability demanded by the current market.
In addition to luxury ready-to-wear, we see potential in interior design. Thanks to the use of reactive denim that guarantees colour fastness, these fabrics can become the fabric of choice for upholstery and furnishing accessories that combine durability and sartorial warmth.
Together we create
Collaboration that matters
Partner
Berto Industria Tessile
Founded in 1887 in Bovolenta (Padova), Berto Industria Tessile is an Italian denim specialist with a heritage rooted in craftsmanship and innovation. At the Bovolenta site, the following steps were carried out:
- Warping
- Indigo dyeing of the warp yarn
- Weaving
- Finishing (washing and stabilising the fabric)
- Quality control
Berto’s approach in this project reflects its philosophy: combining Italian heritage with fabric innovation and bespoke creativity. The result is a fabric that merges soft hand-feel with denim character – selected by brands that value excellence, transparency and personalisation.
Partner
The Woolmark Company
The Woolmark Company is a global authority on wool, highlighting Australian wool’s position as the ultimate natural fibre and premier ingredient in luxury apparel. The Woolmark logo is one of the world’s most recognized and respected brands, providing assurance of the highest quality and representing pioneering excellence and innovation from farm through to finished product.
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